Can you weave a soft textile in plain weave? Of course you can, if the materials, sett and beat are chosen to maximize that textural characteristic. I talked about materials, sett and beat in previous blog posts here and here and hinted that weave structure may also play a role in how soft a textile finishes.
I am an avowed weave structure junkie. I love playing around with different ways to interlace threads to create pattern. I also like weaving soft, drapey shawls, scarves and clothing because of how they feel on the skin. What does one have to do with the other? It is all about the power of the float.
I am playing with floats now, albeit in a wall piece. I put on enough warp to weave four panels (and of course some samples). Each panel is a different weave structure chosen for its ability to show visible pattern in an all-black textile. Yes, that means I am re-threading after each panel is finished, but it’s a narrow warp in 5/2 cotton.
I am currently weaving the third panel in one of my favorite structures, Beiderwand (above). For those who have taken my Turned Beiderwand workshop, I opted not to turn this draft, mainly because I didn’t want to add a supplementary warp to the one already on the beam. So, two shuttles it is.
The first two panels were woven in twills, one a turned twill and the other an advancing twill. The Beiderwand has a 3:1 ratio of pattern picks to ground (tie-down) picks. The longest float in this draft is 7 ends wide, or about 3/8 inch. That would be a bit long for a scarf, but for a piece that will hang on the wall, it shouldn’t be a problem.
What I’m finding in terms of texture, or softness, is that I am petting this one a lot more than I did the first two, even while it is still on the loom. The blocks are combining with the long floats for a lovely soft texture. I won’t be able to judge the final texture until it is wet finished, but I have woven many very soft scarves and shawls in this structure, so I understand its potential.
Both twill panels also have floats. The turned twill has 3-end and 3-pick floats, and the advancing twill has up to 7-end weft floats. However, in the advancing twill, those floats create textural ridges vs. blocks, so the textile doesn’t read as “soft,” even though materials and sett are the same.
Longer floats also contribute to more fluidity and drape in your cloth, which can enhance the softness quotient. By contrast, a summer-and-winter pattern would display blocks, but the floats are much shorter, so it doesn’t feel as smooth on the fingertips and would rely more on materials and sett for its softness.
As with everything, however, balance is critical.
Floats have to fall into that “just-right” zone I mentioned for sett. If they are too long for the purpose you intend, they will snag and pull, affecting the long-term durability and beauty of your textile. The finer the yarn, however, the shorter that 7-end float will end up. And we are back, full-circle, to materials and sett.
The softness of any woven textile ultimately depends on the proper integration of all these design elements.
Design thoughtfully to weave softly, my friends. And remember to sample!
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