Getting sett & beat 'just right' for soft textiles

In a recent blog post, I responded to a weaver question about creating soft textiles by sharing my experience with fibers and yarns that have worked best for me. I mentioned, however, materials are only part of the story.

I suspect many novice weavers have been disappointed by a handwoven

Where the beater meets the fell--how hard?

scarf that finishes stiff as a board, primarily because their newfound enthusiasm for weaving has them pulling the beater with the force of a battering ram.

I blame part of this on our common name for this essential loom part: a beater. Unless you are weaving rugs, or a textile like a placemat or runner for which stiffness is a desirable quality, the “beater’s” job often is more about placing the weft in the correct position against the fell than beating it.

In terms of softness, what we’re really talking about is drape. How does that scarf or garment feel as it glides over the skin or wraps around the neck? Drape is controlled by the density of cloth, which is determined by how close together the warp and weft end up. The softest of yarns will not produce a soft scarf if the sett is too close and/or the beat is too hard.

The tricky part is finding the perfect combination of sett and beat to achieve the cloth you want. There is a common “rule” in determining sett, akin to Goldilocks’ search for just-right porridge. The perfect sett is one that allows you to achieve the picks/inch, or weft density, you want at your natural beat. Finding your “natural” beat, however, takes practice and experience, and what’s natural for a rug weaver will be different than that for a lace weaver.

Sample set for Turned Beiderwand scarf

So where do we start if we want to weave a soft, drapey scarf? If you have taken any class with me, you know the answer to this question. Cringe all you want, but the only way to be sure is to sample, and then wet finish your sample BEFORE you weave the scarf.

Start with the sett recommendations provided by the yarn supplier or another resource, such as the Master Yarn Chart available as a free download from Handwoven. What is suggested for the fiber and size of your warp yarn and the structure you are planning? (We’ll talk more about weave structure next time.)

Warp the loom at that sett and weave a sample, sending the beater toward the fell with a quick flick of the wrist vs. a strong, shoulder-driven yank, or a long squeeze. Then count the picks per inch before cutting it off the loom and record that along with all the other sampling measurements.

Wet finish and press the sample as you intend for the scarf. Then evaluate. Is the density enhancing the softness of the yarn or detracting from it? Does it drape nicely across your hand? Are the warp and weft balanced—same number of warps and wefts per inch?

If it is too firm or stiff

If the weft is too dense, tighten the sett (higher epi) to provide more resistance against over-beating the weft. If the warp is too dense, open the sett (lower epi) to make it easier to match picks per inch to ends per inch. If the weave is balanced but too stiff, open the sett and adjust the beat to balance.

If it too loosely woven (aka sleazy)

Flick that beater a little faster (increasing beater speed works better than brute force), or tighten the sett or both.

Soft Blue Beiderwand scarf front & back

With sampling and experience, you’ll find the Goldilocks combination of sett and beat to enhance the softness of your chosen materials. Do that consistently for 72 inches, and you’ll have a lovely soft scarf.